Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Anchoring out in the Berry Islands-Priceless! Travel to Spanish Wells. March 26-29

So we left the nice folks and marina at Great Harbour and moved SE to Hoffman Cay along with our buddy boat Putz'n Around.  Our route took us past the Norwegian and Royal Caribbean cruise lines "beach day" islands of Little and Big Stirrup Cays. 
Heading through some skinny water to our anchorage. Notice the Bahamian courtesy flag flying along with the Great Lakes Grand Banks Cruising Club burgee.

 

It was a short trip as the crow flies, but a long way around to get back to the anchorage point.  Many from the marina have dinghyed out to this anchorage spot for day trips so it is only about 10 miles through the shallows by dinghy, but 32 miles around in deeper draft vessels.  But what a spot!  Deserted beaches, a blue hole to explore and even swim in, and a short  dinghy ride to the famous Flo's Conch Bar.  The weather was hot, the water was warm and the holding was excellent.
The view from the beach at our anchorage. (panoramic shot)
It is only a short hike to the blue hole from this beach.  Julie and I hiked up there twice.  Many jump off the rock cliff to swim but some of us in the older crowd (read Tom) went down a trail to a rocky ledge to take a dip.  It seemed more salty than the ocean and one could really float in that water!

 

 
 
On one trip to the beach we saw this feeding frenzy on the minnows along the shore.  Scott actually scooped one out to use as bait for fishing later!  Fishing with his bare hands...I thought for a moment I was watching Swamp People!  :>)  What a guy!

Scott hailed Flo's on the marine radio (they say hail them 24/7/365) and made reservations for six as he also invited Bruce and Marie (Felix) who were anchored just south of us at Fowl Cay. We each took our dinghy a little after high tide so we could get through the shallows on the way there (4 mile trip). Who would have thought our Easter dinner would have been a great lobster (Julie) and conch fritters (Tom) served with family style rice and beans and cole slaw?  Oh and the rum punch is famous.... Only three people live on Little Harbour Cay, the site of Flo's.
Here we are with Bruce and Marie (Felix) and Scott and Brigitte (Putz'n Around) along with the staff at Flo's.

The piles of conch shells is enormous along the bank in front of Flo's, evidence of just how many conch fritters must have been prepared here!
 

Trying to beat the low tide back to the anchorage.

Oops...I guess the tide went out.  Needed a shallower draft dinghy!
 
On Monday we motored about four miles to get about a mile south to Fowl Cay where we could exit at low tide for our next destination, Spanish Wells.  It was a challenge finding a suitable hold as there were already 4 boats in the small anchorage and we took a spot in the channel which meant we would swing 180 degrees with every tide change. And every type of boat reacts differently to the wind, currents, etc as a mono hull sailboat was to our port (or starboard depending on the tide!), a large power cat to our starboard bow and of course shallows as well.  Long story short, all went fine. 
 Five beaches within a short dinghy ride.  What a spot.

Looking out over the Atlantic on White Cay:

At one point in the night (around 1 AM) the wind affected the sailboat (as he was more out of the tidal current) and his stern was only 15 feet or so off our port side as we were held parallel with the channel by the falling tide. But as the wind died he too went with the current and we could rest easy.
We were invited by Bruce and Marie to Felix for cocktails on Monday night.  A beautiful new 51' Leopard power cat.  What a lot of room aboard!  Very nice.  Thanks for the hospitality and company crossing on Tuesday Bruce and Marie.
 


In the morning no one could get a cell signal strong enough to check weather so we went with what we know from Monday and our visual on the ocean which looked pretty calm.  Sum Escape, Putz'n Around and Felix all departed around 7:30 for the 65 miles across the Northeast Providence Channel to the marina at Spanish Wells. 
Leaving early morning.

 
Portions of our route were 12,600 feet deep!  One doesn't feel so bad about pumping 40-50 gallons of black water overboard in that much water! (Remember there are no pump out facilities in the Bahamas....at least we haven't come across any yet).   The water is so deep blue!
 
Here is a short video of the marlin Scott hooked (5-6 feet) but got away.  You can see it jumping off the left side of the screen if you watch it in full screen mode..

We have to keep pinching ourselves that we are really doing this in our own vessel.  But patience and no schedule really pays off when you can traverse open ocean in 2 foot waves (OK maybe an occasional 3 footer and a bit of a washing machine, not the ocean swells we were hoping for) or less.  Here we are coming in to Spanish Wells. Beautiful.


We met a boat neighbor here from Wisconsin who has been coming here for 10+ years and renting a home.  He gave us a ride to the grocery store (golf cart) so we could get some fresh produce.  What a friendly island!
We will likely be here until Saturday and hopefully anchor out Sat night and travel to Great Abaco on Sunday.  At least that is what the weather looks to bring right now.
OK, off to get some maintenance arranged on the boat (oil change and replace faulty oil pressure sending unit), perhaps find someone to look at our AIS and explore this wonderful new location now.

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