Travelling North, Happy Easter! March 22- April 1, 2018

We departed Palm Coast on Thursday after waiting out the thunderstorms and then a day of wind, and travelled to the Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville Beach.  Here we are passing  through St Augustine and the Bridge of Lions. 

And here is a cruise ship we have started too see along the way.  We will see these ships at a number of our stops.  They are part of the American Cruises Line.  So you too can do part of the Great Lop on a cruise ship if you desire!  This one is anchored in Saint Augustine.

Further along the way, we were hailed by the Grand Banks in front of us.  “Sum Escape, Sum Escape this is Spritus.  I’ll slow down and you can go around my port side”.  He must have receive only AIS as I could not “see” him on our AIS.  But I was gaining on him and he did not want to be waked, thus the call.  Julie and I agreed that this boat name was familiar.  As we got close, Julie and I surmised this was the “world famous Eddy and Linda” the Big Bend weather forecasters many Loopers rely on to pick the right day to cross from Carabelle to Clearwater or Tarpon Springs.  So as we passed Spiritus (36’ Grand Banks) I called him by name…”Is this the world famous Eddy?”  Laughter and “Yes it is”.  So we had a nice conversation on 17 and we bid them safe travels. 
Checking the current forecasts along the way.  Don't want to traverse certain narrow areas at full ebb.  The old Raymarine can still have these updated regularly.

We got to the marina early enough to scrub some of the salt off the boat as the winds were still kicking up a pretty good spray at times today and Sum Escape was pretty salty.  As we were doing this Spiritus pulled into the same marina.  So we were able to talk to Eddy and Linda, the famous weather forecasters and Gold Loopers, and learned they had just sold their “dirt” home and were heading out on another Loop. They will be speaking at the AGLCA rendezvous in Norfolk at the end of April. We are not going to attend this event as we want to be flexible enough in our travel dates to be able to take some side trips on the way to Canada.

We had time to walk the ¾ of a mile to Publix to get some groceries too.  We must be blending into the fabric of the community.  Why you ask?  Well, as we checked out and packed our back packs and canvas grocery bags while dressed in our big sun hats and sun shirts, a check out packer asked if we had by chance left a blue bungy cord in the store during our last visit.  Hmm, not us we replied…boy, I guess we look like locals!

Passing through Fernandina Beach we spotted this container ship...hey maybe we can just jump aboard and get to Singapore for our upcoming cruise a lot cheaper!

Brickhill River anchorage near the north end of Cumberland Island was our next destination.  Along the way we had to pass through Cumberland Sound near the Kings Bay Naval Station area.  We heard Navy “escort planes”, lots of Coast Guard chatter and such.  Yes, a submarine was coming in through the inlet just after we passed into Georgia.  I slowed down so the two naval vessels and the submarine would catch up a bit so we could get a better look.  Not!  As soon as I slowed one of the many Coast Guard boats sped up, came beside us and radioed “I assume you are going to the ICW, please keep up your speed and head directly to buoy G79”.  We resumed speed and he followed us about 2 miles all the way to the buoy.  And yes, there was a person attending the machine gun on the CG boat!

Here are the three naval ships and numerous Coast Guard escorts.  This is a close as they would allow us to get.

As we arrived at our intended anchorage, we took advantage of the tide state (high) and entered the shallow southern end of the river, went past the Plum Orchard mansion we visited by dinghy a couple years ago

and then found a nice spot to drop the hook. A very scenic side trip off the ICW. As we dropped the hook, dolphins were already fishing the area and we had the place all to ourselves.  As soon as the sun went down it was quite chilly but that just makes for restful sleeping.  No wind, no boats and just a reversing current to deal with.  Our anchor seems to reset itself nicely as we have anchored in the tidal currents many times now.  I hope writing this does not jinx us! 

We relaxed and had a relatively slow start to the morning as we needed to wait for some tide help to get through the shallow Jeckyl Creek on our way to Brunswick.  It only carries about 3.5 feet at low tide and that was around 8:30 AM so we needed to wait a bit.  We waited to target about an hour after low tide which should produce a foot and a half of help.  All went well, and yes it was that shallow…about 5 feet with the tidal help.  Just right for our 4 foot draft.  Passing through Jeckyl Creek as a plane is readying to take off.

We got to Brunswick about 11:30 or noon and fueled and pumped out.  As Tom was pumping fuel "Barefoot Pete" a marina live aboard came to greet us.  He explained to Julie he was a retired corporate attorney from Michigan....I guess that explains the need to kick back and be barefoot!
Our arrival here marks a milestone for us.  We have now travelled over 10,000 miles since leaving Muskegon MI in August 2015. The Loop is 5500-6000 miles depending on one’s route so we have definitely been distracted along the way with side trips and such. But that is the beauty of not having a cast in stone schedule!

We hustled off to the farmer’s market next door before they closed at 1 PM.  Had to get some fresh veggies and Earline’s world famous crab cakes.  Oh, they are so good!  Had a couple for lunch as they were still warm (sorry Julie, no gluten free available) and a couple are in the freezer for another day.  Kevin M, I really like your crab cakes but….oh boy, you need this recipe! We got laundry done (free laundry here!) the boat scrubbed and cleaned up inside as we had company coming at 4 PM.  Our old neighbors John and Becky now live in St Simons Island and we have been able to meet up with them on three of our four trips through the area over the last three years.  We have a beverage and appetizers aboard while we watched Tom's alma mater Ferris State win the National Men's Basketball, Division II title!  Go Bulldogs!.  They then took us to a new restaurant, Corsair, by the Westin on Jeckyl Island.  Very good.  Had wood fired oysters for an appetizer…wow, they were fantastic.  And everyone enjoyed their main course as well.  Nice spot.  Thanks so much for the hospitality John and Becky, it is always a pleasure to spend time catching up with you!

We both talked to a number of other couples on Looper boats but the conversations were brief due to the cold and rain on Sunday and Monday.  We will likely see these folks “up the waterway”...at least we hope to.  A rainy day in Brunswick....oh and cold too!  And we did not see if Barefoot Pete was today....


48 degrees outside.  Windows are steaming when Julie cooks!

On Palm Sunday we walked over to Saint Francis Xavier for the Mass.  Nice facility and a young thirty something priest with a full black beard and the start of a man bun.  Nice to have a younger priest for a little change of pace.  He was a very good speaker and we enjoyed the Mass very much.  We took a long walk on the way back to the marina and got home before the rain started.  Sunday and Monday turned out pretty cloudy rainy and cold (especially Monday).  But on Monday we got more laundry done and found a few minutes between showers and wind to take a walk.  The walk included a stop at Pam Pam’s cupcake shop.  Yes, the red velvet was gluten free!  So, we had great cupcakes for dessert with our dinner Monday night.   And the cruise ship is following us.  Here it is docked in Brunswick.

Tuesday we left at first light destined for Queen Bess Creek anchorage on the north end of Ossabaw island.  Lots of twists and turns.

This is a good staging area to be in a position to transit Hell Gate, another shallow area just a few miles away, in a higher tide state.  We spent election night in November 2016 here on our way south.  It is an easy in and out and has lots of singing birds.  We will leave early morning and take advantage of the 8 foot tides in the area. We should have 6 feet of help for the 3.5 foot MLW spots there.

Wednesday we left as planned and targeted Station Creek, just inside Port Royal Sound across from Hilton Head.  It was a little rough in Port Royal Sound so we cranked up the speed a bit.


We are now the furthest north we have been by boat in two years!  Upon arrival across the sound, the southerly direction wind was forecasted to hold and we did not want to have to beat into the waves in the morning.  A quick “consult” with Active Captain reviews showed a number of anchorages in Cowen creek a bit further north.  We snaked our way past some nice homes and dropped the hook in an area with some swinging room as the wind and changing tidal currents were going to produce some wide swings with the change of tides.  We did move about 175’ (had anchor alarm set for 200’ so at least we didn’t get awakened) with the wind and tides.  About right for our 80 foot of scope, 12’ low and 20’ high tide depth and the 20+ knot winds we were experiencing (26 knot max recorded).  Love it when a plan works out.  

Thursday, March 29 we had a short trip to the downtown Beaufort marina.  We arrived before strong southerly winds (25 knots recorded) and currents would impede our docking.  Another plan that worked out.  We took a nice walk to BiLo grocery store to restock a bit.

Remember when we said a bit earlier in this post we to meet up with some of the Loopers from Brunswick.  Well we did.  Frank and Cally (Jubilee) pulled in not long after us.  And we also met Tim and Mary (Nellie May) and Jerry and Susie (Happy Ours).   We invited the three couples aboard for docktails on the fly bridge.  They are all headed to the AGLCA Rendezvous in Norfolk at the end of April.  We hope to be further north by then but may see them later in Canada or the Great Lakes.

Friday we took another walk to BiLo grocery store and restocked some more for further anchoring out next week.  In the early evening, Frank and Cally (Jubilee) had us over to their brand new Ranger Tug for some conversation and beverages.  These tugs are really well designed from a use of space perspective and are quite the impressive vessel.  We had a great conversation learning about their careers and family.  As we have said before, we meet the nicest people on this trip.
There are lots of Loopers heading to Norfolk and the AGLCA is holding a cocktail party on April 8 in Charleston.  We have signed up as we intended to be in Charleston already.  We expect we will meet many more “class of 2018” Loopers in our next 6 months of travels as we finish up our three year journey. 
And of course other Loopers did show up.  Eddy and Linda (Spiritus) joined us aboard to ask questions about Door County favorites.  So we gave them a "Wisconsin Briefing"  as a sort of partial payback for the great weather forecasting work they do for Loopers.  We hope to continue to see Loopers along the way north, spending time with interesting people is one of the most enjoyable parts of this adventure.
A night view of Beaufort waterfront.

Saturday we took a nice walk and just enjoyed shopping in the community. 

Saturday night we watched Michigan win their final four basketball game.  Go Blue!

Sunday we walked across the swing bridge to Lady's Island and St Peter's Catholic Church for Easter Sunday Mass. 

The 30 something priest had a good message and it included a "challenge" to folks to come the next 7 Sundays for the "Seven Week Mass is Awesome Challenge".  He said to think of it as a science project and that if it wasn't what you thought at the end of seven weeks you should come and talk with him.  A very good speaker and energetic young man. 
Oh, and our exercise for the day is taken care of as it was over two miles each way! On the walk back from the famous "Forest Gump bridge".  Yes this bridge was where the famous scene in the movie was filmed.


Another view of Beaufort from the bridge.  Note that the cruise ship is following us again!

A couple closer photos of the cruise ship following us.  Glad we have not encountered a pass of one of these in a tight part of the ICW!

We were reading the Church bulletin and the pastor's message had the heading "From the Poker Table" and was signed "All in for Jesus".  Seemed a little strange.  So Julie did a little Google work and found the priest had been in a Vegas poker tourney in 2009 and won $100,000 for his parish.  His name is Father Andrew Trapp.  Google it and you will find a YouTube of the poker event.  Interesting.
We had a little time to reflect on life a bit after Easter Mass.  The booklet on the table is one shared at Easter Mass.  Everyone was challenged to share its message with another.  We do thank God for His blessings and our ability to experience this wonderful adventure.  A nice reflection spot on the stern tied to the dock in Beaufort.

We plan to anchor out the next three nights on our way to Charleston.  Short travel days but no hurry to get to Charleston.  We will be staying in Charleston through Sunday night and then continuing our trek north.  

March statistics:

Miles travelled:  Month: 702 / Trip to Date: 10203

Travel days:  15 / 219
Engine hours: 83 / 1164
Locks:   4 / 526Bridges opened:  8 / 90

Days on hook or free wall:  7 / 97
Gallons of diesel:  506  / 8254
Loopers we are meeting along the way....too many to count!

On the road...er, water again! Nice to be moving again! March 4-21, 2018

You will see a bit later that we are officially Looping again!  Our departure from Stuart on March 13 marks the start of the northern trek to finish.  A three year trip for us....
From a AGLCA Facebook feed....we agree.

We said our goodbyes to all our friends at Longboat Key Club Moorings on Saturday night March 3 at a happy hour aboard Sum Escape and cast off lines on Sunday.  We already miss the comradery but it is so good to be moving again too!   Safe travels to all our friends at LBKCM!!  Betsy and Dave (Frye Daze) Diane and Ed (Coaster) Bonnie and Jon (Bon Voyage), we are missing you!  We hope to see you again soon.

First stop was an anchorage at Don Pedro State Park near Cape Haze. 

We have anchored here previously but never took the time to explore the area.  So we launched the dinghy and went over to the park docks to explore the beach and facilities there.  So, first issue was an almost dead battery on the dinghy.  Sitting for over two months was not the battery's friend.  The first couple tries it just would engage and not turn over. But finally it had just enough power to get a couple weak cranks in and the Yamaha fired!  Hooray!  So we rode the dinghy through the canals and viewed the houses nearby for an hour or so before stopping at the state park so the battery would have time to recharge.
The park is very nice with about 8 small boat slips for tying up and a collection box for the daily $2 a person state park fee.  We took a nice long walk along the shore.  Lots of shells and very few people!

Day two we had a very short trip over to Gasparilla Island.  While enroute to the Boca Grande Marina, when we were approaching Cayo Costa, we passed Larry and Lena (Hobo) who were our slip neighbors at Ortega Landing in November.  Yet another small world cruising sighting! Safe travels to you Larry and Lena!
Boca Grande is a very nice place!  Definitely some money on this island! 

We took our bikes out and rode to the south end of the island to take a look at things there. 

Stopped at South Beach restaurant and had a beverage and watched the activities there before riding back downtown. We did not go to the museum but will likely do that the next trip as it does look interesting.  As we were enjoying the view at South Beach, Larry and Karen (Dream) texted us and said they were at the restaurant at Boca Grande Marina, having taken a slip at Uncle Henry's on the north end of the island.  They were out on a week long cruise and were spending the night on the island as well. Another small world story. We were able to chat with them aboard Sum Escape when we returned from our bicycle trip.
The island has a lot of history.  Phosphates were a huge business until approximately the 70's and the last of the trains left the island in 1981.  But the rail bed has become a bike/golf cart trail and the island is very nice.
On Tuesday morning we were having breakfast on the aft deck and a gentleman stopped to say hello as he noted we were from Michigan.  He asked if we knew anyone from Harbor Springs.  We of course told him we bought the boat in Harbor Springs, and we did know some of the same folks.  As our conversation ensued, he was telling me how he would be going to the Bahamas, asked about our two trips there, etc.  Well, he will be flying there but meeting August Busch (yes the beer family) in the Bahamas to board their 100 foot Ocean Alexander.  He will be seeing our friends Vicki and David from the Great Lakes Grand Banks Association there.  We miss seeing you in the Bahamas this year Vicki and David!  He also (in a friendly way) reminded us that we should get the salt from our travels off the teak.  We shared that we tried to get the boat washed (remember, I am not supposed to use my right arm for anything strenuous) but could not get anyone.  He immediately picked up his phone to call "his guy" that cares for his boat but we told him thanks but we were leaving soon.  Such a friendly place!
We had dinner at the famous Pink Elephant restaurant. 

We got there early as all reservations were taken in the dining room and only the outside and downstairs were available on a first come first served basis.  So we got a nice outside table at around 5:30 and watched people arriving in their golf carts for dinner.  It was fun to watch them hop out of the cart and sit on the back seats of the cart sipping a beverage and watching the sunset before they went in for dinner.  We were probably a bit under dressed but they still took our money....  Food was great and service was wonderful.  Note the wind vane.

The famous Gasparilla Inn.

And the beach during our morning walk.

We do want to return to this island and will hopefully do just that in the winter of 2019/2020.
Next stop was Fort Myers, the Edison Ford Marina near downtown. 

On the way there, our upper helm Raymarine chart plotter screen went almost dim.  This is a known issue with these E120 Classic models. I made a few phone calls to local dealers and also found a repair place on the internet as I am not ready to spring for all new electronics.  This is a vintage 2006 electronics package and depth sounder, radar, auto pilot and displays (2 of these) will all need to be replaced.  Charts are still available, everything works, and we hope to keep it running for a while yet.  Maybe Santa will be good to us and new electronics could be in the cards while the boat is stored in Michigan for the winter.  After talking to these dealers and the repair facility we decided to pull he unit out and send it in for repairs.  We will have it shipped to Stuart where I can reinstall it prior to moving north. 
In yet another small world story, Clark and Evelyn (Sunset Delight, formerly Sea Moss) pulled in to the very same marina.  We travelled and ran into them in various spots along our 2015/2016 journeys...the river system, Faro Blanco in Marathon, Pete's Pub in the Bahamas, Bald Head Island, etc. We got a nice tour of their new boat which is a 52' Krogen Express.  A beautiful vessel.
Clark bringing her into the marina.

We compared notes on repairs, etc and commiserated a bit but concluded all things can be fixed and repairs are just part of the lifestyle.  You pay your money and take your chances!  It was great seeing you again Evelyn and Clark.  Perhaps our paths will cross again as we both head north this Spring.
We had dinner plans with our friends Pat and Tim on Wed evening and we had a wonderful time visiting with them.  They will be headed back north soon so it was fortunate we could see them prior to their leaving.  And thanks so much Tim for taking me and my dead chart plotter to the UPS store...sometimes things just work out.
Thursday we got some groceries and I went to a AGLCA charting and information session at Legacy Harbor Marina with Ev and Clark (Sunset Delight).  Not much new learned except a couple new anchorages but it is always fun talking with other cruisers.
Friday morning we cast off lines early headed for the world famous Roland and Mary Martin's Marina at Clewiston.  The sunrise as we are leaving Ft. Myers.

Good cruising with nice scenery along the way.

And some sugar cane field burning as well.

Also had a long wait at Moore Haven lock as another eastbound vessel had just cleared the lock when we arrived.  But we got to Clewiston in time to take a nice long walk around some of the residential community.  We also listened to the band a bit but retired early as we want to get an early start on Saturday to get to Sailfish Marina in Stuart.  We want to have time to walk to the local seafood store and get some fresh fish!  No big bass fishing tournament as there was last stay here, but the place really has character.  Cold day, wind screens are down at the tiki bar.

And we had to "break into" the parade of bass boats rounding the curve from the boat launch just before the Clewiston lock...I will admit that I used the law of gross tonnage a bit to our advantage to "break in" to the procession.

We had a nice ride to Stuart.  Only one lock was operating and we idled right on through.

As we were just under the bridge to the east past Sunset Marina Julie was piloting and I was below.  She said "this boat is going to wake us!". It is a very nice brand new Back Cove 37.....and when it passed in the opposite direction honking its horn, we could then see the name "Otter" on the stern.  It was Martha and Parker in their new boat!  We are meeting them on Sunday night for dinner!   What a small world.  And as planned on Sunday, they did come to our boat for a beverage and then drove us to the Dolphin Bar and Shrimp House restaurant where we had a great time catching up and enjoying a great seafood meal together.  Some of you may recall that Martha and Parker were the former owners of Sum Escape and we have seen them in the Bahamas and elsewhere boating since.  It is such a small world.  Thanks so much for the hospitality Martha and Parker.  We'll see you in Harbor Springs in August we hope!  Given that is where we bought the boat, our Great Loop will be complete there too!
Monday we caught up on a number of things in preparation for casting off the lines on Tuesday. This included reinstalling the upper helm chart plotter which came back on schedule from the repair shop in Bradenton.  All appears to be working well again. And the $775 repair beats the multiple boat unit replacement cost of the whole system.  It may be old and slow (Hmmm, that sounds familiar) but it does all we need it to do for our travels.  We think we will wait for a major failure or when chart updates are no longer available before we replace all the electronics.
Hmmm, what boat does not "fit" in this marina?  Closest marina to the Atlantic for sport fishing...can you tell?  Who's little trawler is that on the end????

Tuesday morning we took a nice long walk in Stuart prior to departing around 10:30 or so as it was a short trip to the anchorage just north of Vero Beach.  This departure marks our resumption of the Great Loop as we are now heading north with a destination of Harbor Springs to officially complete the Loop (but we will likely continue on to Muskegon/Grand Haven to store the boat for the winter).

Upon entry into the anchorage we spotted Sunset Delight already anchored.  Our view to the west.

Later in the afternoon Clark came over via dinghy to invite us for cocktails but we declined as we had things to attend to. We chatted for a while and agreed that we would likely see one another on the way north.
Making chile...another cold snap in Florida. 

In the 40's in the AM as I pull the anchor!  Note the fogged up windows from running the heat.

Wednesday we anchored at Cocoa.  Just an overnight stop so we did not disembark. The anchorage we used on a prior trip between the power lines and bridge is shoaled so we anchored south of the power lines.  The free dock was also destroyed by the recent hurricane. 
All these boats arrived after us and we passed many of them along the way.  We will pull anchor early again so I don't have to pass them again!

Thursday we proceeded to Rockhouse Creek anchorage in New Smyrna.  As we passed the Port Canaveral area we noted two cruise ships in port on the AIS, the Disney Wonder and Carvival Liberty.

We have stayed in this anchorage before and we got in with time to launch the dinghy and walk an hour on the sandbar that appears at low tide.  We had a nice walk and then enjoyed the sunset aboard prior to a nice grilled dinner.

Leaving early again.

Friday we headed out to the Marina at Hammock Beach Resort in Palm Coast. 

It is a very nice marina and includes a shuttle over to their sister resort on the ocean...golf, restaurants, beach etc all there.  We took a shuttle ride over there to orient ourselves with the area. We had dinner aboard and retired fairly early as a gentleman (Gary from Affordable Yacht Service) will be washing the boat early on Saturday (still trying to follow doctors orders and rest the golfer's elbow tendonitis).
Saturday we broke out the folding bikes for a short 2 mile one way trip to Publix to replenish.  There are some very nice bike paths that keep one off highway A1A.  A nice ride really, we will be going back one or more times before departing (haven't decided when we will leave).  In the afternoon we did laundry while lounging at the much quieter marina pool (versus the kids pool at the beach resort).
We had reservations for St Patrick's Day dinner at the Atlantic Restaurant. 

We had a wonderful meal overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  Julie had macadamia encrusted corvine and I had the classic corned beef and cabbage. 

Very good food.  As we were walking back to the hotel lobby for our shuttle, we saw the drive in movie.  They had lined up golf carts in a perimeter around the outdoor movie screen and were showing Moana on the lawn...a "drive in" movie complete with a popcorn stand! Too cool.
This is a very nice stop and we highly recommend it to all travelling looking for a nice reprieve from ICW travel fatigue.
Sunday we took a long dinghy ride through some of the canals around the area.  The marina condos from the dinghy on the ICW.

Wow, what an expansive waterfront lot area this has grown up to be! 
Monday was a "Spring cleaning" day.  Curtains drying after a thorough washing.  Curtains with pleats not a problem for that resourceful Julie

...just hang the curtains after washing with pleats intact on a hanger and use a hair dryer...who needs a iron??!!  Julie did every curtain in the boat.  She is so resourceful living in a small space.

And a pizza for dinner!  Note the new cauliflower crust Julie used.  Thanks again to Phyllis (Corkscrew) for the tip and to Ed and Diane (Coaster) for the transportation to Trader Joe's in Sarasota to purchase it. We miss all of you!

We also started to plan our next few weeks heading north. We found a Jimmy Buffet concert in Charleston SC so we purchased tickets and now have another commitment.  We will stay in Charleston for a few days to attend this April 6 concert.  Another checkmark for the bucket list!  We'll see him while he and we are relatively young!
We stayed for weather issues for a few days here at Palm Coast.  A thunderstorm moving through on Tuesday.

We took the opportunity to do some Spring cleaning on Wednesday too.  Tom waxed the bright work (using left arm only) based on the varnish guy recommendation that it will extend the life of the varnish job. Julie continued to wash and rehang curtains.  Good progress on maintenance in spite of the high winds on Wednesday.
It looks like a Thursday departure for points further north given the weather forecast for T-storms and wind advisories.   More soon....