Saturday, April 14, 2018

Beaufort to Southport. April 2-14, 2018

So we left Beaufort at slack tide on Monday as planned after a quick walk to BiLo for some last provisions.  As noted earlier, we did not need to be in Charleston until Thursday so we planned three short travel days with nice anchorages each night as the weather was cooperating.  We have finally caught that elusive 70-75 degrees!
The first night we stayed at the Bass Creek anchorage after a 16 mile day.  A real nice spot with lots of wildlife and a remote setting in the salt marsh.  Our one day of barefoot weather in quite a while.


Did have some aircraft noise as a nearby naval station had quite a bit of flight training activity. But we do thank our military for the freedom we enjoy!

As we were eating dinner the generator quit.  Code 36, "engine shut down not initiated by computer" and a list of issues to check.  So we finished dinner and Tom went down to the hot engine room to try to get it running.  Michigan plays for the men's basketball championship and inverter batteries were a bit low so the generator would be good to have.  Of course air and fuel are first on the list so I inspect air intake, OK.  Look at primary Racor... clean and pink, just as it should be but I change it anyway.  Remove spin on secondary fuel filter on engine noting only 100 hours on it but change it too.  Rest of list is mostly technician stuff above my pay grade.  So we hoped the filters would do it. After a quick prime of the engine and couple cranks success!  We're not sure why, but this fuel filter fix seems to work but something is not exactly right because the CATs run off the same fuel with no issues with filters.  Perhaps the fuel pump is getting weak is my guess.  If problem persists we will get that tested.
We rose lazily knowing we had another short travel day ahead.  Tom called a local CAT technician in Charleston to have the starboard alternator tested when we arrive as the last few days we noted that the house battery bank was charging very slowly when underway, a change from previous experience.  We also need the port side pre heater element looked at as it was inoperable.  So that is scheduled for Friday.  It was chilly in the morning and the generator for running reverse cycle heat was welcomed.

In the morning, Julie's Google feed reported "light traffic in your area" so we were not too worried about traffic on the ICW!!!  It is really quite relaxing cruising the ICW right now.  I think we are ahead of most migrating snow bird cruisers. But we ran the generator for heat while travelling today as it was 42 degrees when we left!

As we travel along the ICW we are starting to notice the change in landscape.  Not too many palms and more deciduous trees leafing out.  Lots of spring flowers.  We are chasing Spring north, hunting for that ideal 75 degree weather.  Beautiful travel at 9 knots. After another whopping 20 mile day we arrived at West of Watts anchorage, a large relatively open  anchorage we shared with one other boat.
It is just around the corner from our location on this GPS image. Room for lots of boats!
We both relaxed and read books, a first for quite a while.  Julie then grilled some salmon for yet another great dinner and we enjoyed the sunset.

We waited for a little tide in the morning for our next 18 mile day to Church Creek.  We again shared the anchorage with one other boat and had a brief shower late in the afternoon.  We again had a strong reversing tidal current but the 80' of scope seems to work out well (8' of water at low tide) and the currents are strong enough to mostly overwhelm the winds and keep us parallel to shore.  Another grill day (a great steak) and a sunset.  What a nice couple days moseying along the ICW....

Thursday we headed on out for Charleston.  Along the way these guys were showing us the way there!
We timed our departure from the anchorage to hit near slack tide in both Elliott Cut and at the City Marina as both spots are known for very swift tidal currents (up to 6 knots in Elliott's Cut). 
And another high traffic day on the ICW...not!  Julie stepped out of the photo while AP (auto pilot) took the helm.

And the plan worked out, minimal current in both places.  After signing in we started to walk downtown and Tom's phone rang.  The CAT technician was at the boat so we turned around to let him onboard to investigate things.  Yes, we need a new alternator (It was only putting our 2 amp at 1500 RPMs) and the engine pre heater will have to be tested on Friday when engine is cold.  Fast forward to Friday.  New alternator now putting our 23 amps at 1500 RPM and engine preheater was a tripped circuit breaker.  This likely means the element is going bad but due to its location and the fact it is not a critical item (it just helps minimize smoke during engine warm up) and it can only be replaced after pulling the after cooler, we will put it on the list for the next 1000 hour service 600 hours from now.  We stayed on the mega dock at the city marina.

Friday we just "managed" the technicians and the boat washing person (still resting that elbow so when I can find a reasonable boat washing service we sign up) and took a walk to the Harris Teeter for groceries.  Such beautiful architecture.  The cold winter here was touch on the landscaping.

And when we returned another Looper couple we know had arrived.  Ken and Karen (Island Girl) from Sarasota were knocking on the boat.  We met them in Hope Town Abacos, Bahamas in March 2017 and then again saw them in April in West End the day before we crossed back to the US last year.  Small world!  They have now started on the Loop and are travelling north too so we should run into them off an on until we reach Michigan in August. 
The cruise ship continues to follow us!  Here it is docking in calm waters.


And leaving in some wind.
The view down the mega dock we were on.  If you come here, ask for an inside slip!  It was rough with the fetch and ICW wakes on the outside.

But I'd rather be here than having to dinghy out to my boat in the rain! Note the waterfall coming off the fly bridge roof.

Then, it was the awaited "bucket list" Jimmy Buffett concert.  And it was very good.  We enjoyed it very much.  The "Parrot Heads" people watching was great, Jimmy exhibits a lot of energy and truly enjoys performing, and all the music is of course very familiar.  We are really glad we found this concert and  arranged our travels to coincide.  It was a real good time.

We especially like this background to his concert as we have spent many weeks at Hope Town Bahamas.  "One Particular Harbor" was a great song for the backdrop!

 Here is the official tour name...clever.
And this background is a good advertisement for Jimmy's current Broadway show!  What a marketing genius this guy is!

And at one point in the show Jimmy made reference to all the "parakeets" in the audience.  It was a surprise to us how many youngsters were in attendance.  So when he sang the famous "Let's Get Drunk and Screw" song, he suggested that the words were really "Let's Get Lunch at School".  I think most folks sang the original lyrics....

Saturday we set out for the farmer's market but when we arrived it was "race central" for the big Cooper River bridge run, one of the most popular 10Ks in the US.  It is billed as the third largest 10K in the country. We negotiated blocks and blocks long lines of people waiting for school bus transportation back to the parking spots, etc. across the bridge. So we found our way through the maze of closed streets and made our way to Harris Teeter.  It is fun to walk the neighborhoods here as the architecture is so old and interesting.


Our walk on Sunday took us around Colonial Lake, a small tidal lake in a nice neighborhood.

Had a big rainstorm with a few thunder claps and lightning in the afternoon so it was catch up on blog day....

Sunday we attended a AGLCA cocktail hour put on by a local Charleston broker at their dock right next to the City marina where we were.  Many Loopers current, past and wanna be were in attendance.  We met one gentleman, Robert and his wife Linda (Linda Ann).  Robert will be departing on the Loop solo from Myrtle Beach early May.  We shared a few thoughts and ideas with him and as we passed through Myrtle Beach on Wednesday, look what we saw!

Hopefully we will see him along the way in Canada or the Great Lakes this summer.
Monday morning we left around 9:30 destined for Georgetown.  It was a cloudy drizzly day but a good one for travels.

See what we mean when we say shallow.  Note the angle of the sailboat at the dock...hard aground.

We departed later to again wait for some tide to fill the shallows in McCellanville  area.  The plan again worked with about mid tide and a couple extra feet of water.  Never bumped but saw only 4.5 feet in a couple area even with the tidal help.
Don't get confused with the motor vehicle clearance posting!  We wouldn't clear that!!

We arrived in Georgetown and Mary and Tim (Nellie May) were at the fuel dock.  Here they are docked behind us.

So we had dinner with them and Herb (Phantom) who was at the next marina.  Herb is the harbor host for Tarpon Springs and is doing his second Loop right now.  We also saw Ken and Karen (Island Girl) here.  They are following us!!

We were able to get haircuts, etc here on Tuesday which was another cold rainy day.
Tuesday night our friends Vicki and Tom (Grand Baron) visited us via their land yacht. 



It was great to catch up with you Vicki and Tom, thanks so much for going out of your way to come to visit us.  We hope that our paths cross again on the water this summer!

Wednesday we set off for a 90 mile day at first light.  Nice travel day.  Spring is springing!

We wanted to get to St James Marina near Southport to see our friends Jim and Kathy (JimKat).  It was an exciting day of bridges, shoaled inlets, the famous rock pile area (you don't want to get out of the channel here!)

and one barge to pass that took two tries to get done!  Inlets and rock pile were uneventful...just follow the markers. Oh, and weave your way through the dredges.


But the tow?...Ok, here's the story.  "Island Girl, Island Girl this is Sum Escape requesting passing instructions".  "Take me on the two whistle, you will have room" says the tow.  So we nose out around the stern of the tow and it doesn't look like a lot of room but here we go.  So I speed up to 10 mph or so and the prop wash and the fact the tow was starting to move to starboard created not enough room and bam, we were aground.  Pulled back throttles and shifters. Restarted starboard engine. Hmm, what next?  Well the prop wash from the tow should create a good wake so if it does we will use it to back off the mud/sand.  Well, here comes the wake and yes, it is enough to float us and we power off the shallows.  OK, now do we have plugged seas strainers, prop or rudder damage etc?  We pull out behind the tow and limp along for a bit to get out of his prop wash.  Steer from stop to stop...smooth and OK.  Throttle up each engine independently to 1700 RPM or so, no vibration.  Julie takes the helm and I check sea strainers, OK.  Look at rudder shafts, etc, all OK.  Hopefully we are good to go.  So now what?  Moving at 4.2 MPH behind the tow will not get us to our destination before they close. So I call back the tow and ask for his thoughts again.  He apologized and said he thought there was plenty of water where he previously instructed us.  He said he would move over a bit and to take him on the one whistle this time. We safely got around him this time.  These photos don't do the situation justice but it was a tight maneuver.  We don't need any more of those situations!

We arrived at St James Plantation Marina at 4:30, just before their 5 PM closing. 

So it was a 90 mile day in 10 hours of travel and we thank God for the safe passage.  A quick spray off of salt, a quick shower and dinner and we were ready for Jim and Kathy to join us aboard for some conversation and catching up. We had a nice walk around the grounds Thursday morning.  Here we are arriving at the alligator observation board walk....no gators today, too cold!  But we saw robins, heard many cardinals and had a wonderful Spring day walk.

They also picked us up for lunch on Thursday.  We went to Oliver's in Southport and it was very good!  Oh, and the bourbon bread pudding was equal to or better than the same thing in Georgetown at the River Bend restaurant on Monday.  This one included vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce!  Please take note of this Herb and Tim!!  Kathy and Jim also took us to do a little provisioning and we went for a great bicycle ride around their neighborhood.  St James Plantation is a spectacular place and we really appreciate all the hospitality Kathy and Jim!

Friday at first light, we depart for Morehead City, hopefully on the outside so that we can get there in one day versus two.  We want to be able to get a rental car on Saturday prior to their noon closing time and right now the outside looks good for the 109 mile trip. (about 80 outside in the Atlantic). We will travel to New Bern by car on Sunday to visit Linda and Ralph (Mazel Tug) who we travelled with in 2015 and 2016 on earlier portions of the Loop.  It will be great to see them again!

Well, it's a boat.  As we were leaving the slip at St James Julie says "what is that thumping noise?".  So she pilots and I investigate.  Loud "Whump, thump, whump, thump" on starboard side under the lazarette so it is prop related. Sounds fine in engine room.  We are guessing the noise was there on Wednesday too but when we came in no one was on the stern while we were in forward gear to hear it.  And when testing in the ICW more than idle speed throttle was used so engine noise perhaps drowned out the noise. Given we were only a few miles from Zimmerman Marine in Southport we pulled over there to wait for them to open at 8 AM to see if they could help us. Nice morning on the ICW though...

They suggested a diver as a first step.  Diver came around 1:30 and found a large chunk out of one of the blades on starboard side.  Did not find any other strut, cutlass bearing, rudder or other damage. So they will pull the wheels Saturday (one always tunes both props on a twin installation).  Then out to a prop shop (hopefully the chipped blade can be repaired...these are 31" 5 blade props) so they will be "in line" for repair on Monday.  Looking for the right tool to remove the line cutters on the shafts before removing the props.  Sometimes the boat owner even has the right tool!
Off to the shop they go...

There are lots of Loopers here in Southport so we will have company while we await repairs. And we will stop to see Linda and Ralph as we come through at a later date than originally planned. That's a promise Linda and Ralph!




Saturday, April 7, 2018

Travelling North, Happy Easter! March 22- April 1, 2018


We departed Palm Coast on Thursday after waiting out the thunderstorms and then a day of wind, and travelled to the Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville Beach.  Here we are passing  through St Augustine and the Bridge of Lions. 

And here is a cruise ship we have started too see along the way.  We will see these ships at a number of our stops.  They are part of the American Cruises Line.  So you too can do part of the Great Lop on a cruise ship if you desire!  This one is anchored in Saint Augustine.

Further along the way, we were hailed by the Grand Banks in front of us.  “Sum Escape, Sum Escape this is Spritus.  I’ll slow down and you can go around my port side”.  He must have receive only AIS as I could not “see” him on our AIS.  But I was gaining on him and he did not want to be waked, thus the call.  Julie and I agreed that this boat name was familiar.  As we got close, Julie and I surmised this was the “world famous Eddy and Linda” the Big Bend weather forecasters many Loopers rely on to pick the right day to cross from Carabelle to Clearwater or Tarpon Springs.  So as we passed Spiritus (36’ Grand Banks) I called him by name…”Is this the world famous Eddy?”  Laughter and “Yes it is”.  So we had a nice conversation on 17 and we bid them safe travels. 
Checking the current forecasts along the way.  Don't want to traverse certain narrow areas at full ebb.  The old Raymarine can still have these updated regularly.
We got to the marina early enough to scrub some of the salt off the boat as the winds were still kicking up a pretty good spray at times today and Sum Escape was pretty salty.  As we were doing this Spiritus pulled into the same marina.  So we were able to talk to Eddy and Linda, the famous weather forecasters and Gold Loopers, and learned they had just sold their “dirt” home and were heading out on another Loop. They will be speaking at the AGLCA rendezvous in Norfolk at the end of April. We are not going to attend this event as we want to be flexible enough in our travel dates to be able to take some side trips on the way to Canada.
We had time to walk the ¾ of a mile to Publix to get some groceries too.  We must be blending into the fabric of the community.  Why you ask?  Well, as we checked out and packed our back packs and canvas grocery bags while dressed in our big sun hats and sun shirts, a check out packer asked if we had by chance left a blue bungy cord in the store during our last visit.  Hmm, not us we replied…boy, I guess we look like locals!
Passing through Fernandina Beach we spotted this container ship...hey maybe we can just jump aboard and get to Singapore for our upcoming cruise a lot cheaper!
Brickhill River anchorage near the north end of Cumberland Island was our next destination.  Along the way we had to pass through Cumberland Sound near the Kings Bay Naval Station area.  We heard Navy “escort planes”, lots of Coast Guard chatter and such.  Yes, a submarine was coming in through the inlet just after we passed into Georgia.  I slowed down so the two naval vessels and the submarine would catch up a bit so we could get a better look.  Not!  As soon as I slowed one of the many Coast Guard boats sped up, came beside us and radioed “I assume you are going to the ICW, please keep up your speed and head directly to buoy G79”.  We resumed speed and he followed us about 2 miles all the way to the buoy.  And yes, there was a person attending the machine gun on the CG boat!

Here are the three naval ships and numerous Coast Guard escorts.  This is a close as they would allow us to get.

As we arrived at our intended anchorage, we took advantage of the tide state (high) and entered the shallow southern end of the river, went past the Plum Orchard mansion we visited by dinghy a couple years ago

and then found a nice spot to drop the hook. A very scenic side trip off the ICW. As we dropped the hook, dolphins were already fishing the area and we had the place all to ourselves.  As soon as the sun went down it was quite chilly but that just makes for restful sleeping.  No wind, no boats and just a reversing current to deal with.  Our anchor seems to reset itself nicely as we have anchored in the tidal currents many times now.  I hope writing this does not jinx us! 

We relaxed and had a relatively slow start to the morning as we needed to wait for some tide help to get through the shallow Jeckyl Creek on our way to Brunswick.  It only carries about 3.5 feet at low tide and that was around 8:30 AM so we needed to wait a bit.  We waited to target about an hour after low tide which should produce a foot and a half of help.  All went well, and yes it was that shallow…about 5 feet with the tidal help.  Just right for our 4 foot draft.  Passing through Jeckyl Creek as a plane is readying to take off.
We got to Brunswick about 11:30 or noon and fueled and pumped out.  As Tom was pumping fuel "Barefoot Pete" a marina live aboard came to greet us.  He explained to Julie he was a retired corporate attorney from Michigan....I guess that explains the need to kick back and be barefoot!
Our arrival here marks a milestone for us.  We have now travelled over 10,000 miles since leaving Muskegon MI in August 2015. The Loop is 5500-6000 miles depending on one’s route so we have definitely been distracted along the way with side trips and such. But that is the beauty of not having a cast in stone schedule!
We hustled off to the farmer’s market next door before they closed at 1 PM.  Had to get some fresh veggies and Earline’s world famous crab cakes.  Oh, they are so good!  Had a couple for lunch as they were still warm (sorry Julie, no gluten free available) and a couple are in the freezer for another day.  Kevin M, I really like your crab cakes but….oh boy, you need this recipe! We got laundry done (free laundry here!) the boat scrubbed and cleaned up inside as we had company coming at 4 PM.  Our old neighbors John and Becky now live in St Simons Island and we have been able to meet up with them on three of our four trips through the area over the last three years.  We have a beverage and appetizers aboard while we watched Tom's alma mater Ferris State win the National Men's Basketball, Division II title!  Go Bulldogs!.  They then took us to a new restaurant, Corsair, by the Westin on Jeckyl Island.  Very good.  Had wood fired oysters for an appetizer…wow, they were fantastic.  And everyone enjoyed their main course as well.  Nice spot.  Thanks so much for the hospitality John and Becky, it is always a pleasure to spend time catching up with you!

We both talked to a number of other couples on Looper boats but the conversations were brief due to the cold and rain on Sunday and Monday.  We will likely see these folks “up the waterway”...at least we hope to.  A rainy day in Brunswick....oh and cold too!  And we did not see if Barefoot Pete was today....


48 degrees outside.  Windows are steaming when Julie cooks!

On Palm Sunday we walked over to Saint Francis Xavier for the Mass.  Nice facility and a young thirty something priest with a full black beard and the start of a man bun.  Nice to have a younger priest for a little change of pace.  He was a very good speaker and we enjoyed the Mass very much.  We took a long walk on the way back to the marina and got home before the rain started.  Sunday and Monday turned out pretty cloudy rainy and cold (especially Monday).  But on Monday we got more laundry done and found a few minutes between showers and wind to take a walk.  The walk included a stop at Pam Pam’s cupcake shop.  Yes, the red velvet was gluten free!  So, we had great cupcakes for dessert with our dinner Monday night.   And the cruise ship is following us.  Here it is docked in Brunswick.
Tuesday we left at first light destined for Queen Bess Creek anchorage on the north end of Ossabaw island.  Lots of twists and turns.

This is a good staging area to be in a position to transit Hell Gate, another shallow area just a few miles away, in a higher tide state.  We spent election night in November 2016 here on our way south.  It is an easy in and out and has lots of singing birds.  We will leave early morning and take advantage of the 8 foot tides in the area. We should have 6 feet of help for the 3.5 foot MLW spots there.

Wednesday we left as planned and targeted Station Creek, just inside Port Royal Sound across from Hilton Head.  It was a little rough in Port Royal Sound so we cranked up the speed a bit.


We are now the furthest north we have been by boat in two years!  Upon arrival across the sound, the southerly direction wind was forecasted to hold and we did not want to have to beat into the waves in the morning.  A quick “consult” with Active Captain reviews showed a number of anchorages in Cowen creek a bit further north.  We snaked our way past some nice homes and dropped the hook in an area with some swinging room as the wind and changing tidal currents were going to produce some wide swings with the change of tides.  We did move about 175’ (had anchor alarm set for 200’ so at least we didn’t get awakened) with the wind and tides.  About right for our 80 foot of scope, 12’ low and 20’ high tide depth and the 20+ knot winds we were experiencing (26 knot max recorded).  Love it when a plan works out.  

Thursday, March 29 we had a short trip to the downtown Beaufort marina.  We arrived before strong southerly winds (25 knots recorded) and currents would impede our docking.  Another plan that worked out.  We took a nice walk to BiLo grocery store to restock a bit.

Remember when we said a bit earlier in this post we to meet up with some of the Loopers from Brunswick.  Well we did.  Frank and Cally (Jubilee) pulled in not long after us.  And we also met Tim and Mary (Nellie May) and Jerry and Susie (Happy Ours).   We invited the three couples aboard for docktails on the fly bridge.  They are all headed to the AGLCA Rendezvous in Norfolk at the end of April.  We hope to be further north by then but may see them later in Canada or the Great Lakes.
Friday we took another walk to BiLo grocery store and restocked some more for further anchoring out next week.  In the early evening, Frank and Cally (Jubilee) had us over to their brand new Ranger Tug for some conversation and beverages.  These tugs are really well designed from a use of space perspective and are quite the impressive vessel.  We had a great conversation learning about their careers and family.  As we have said before, we meet the nicest people on this trip.
There are lots of Loopers heading to Norfolk and the AGLCA is holding a cocktail party on April 8 in Charleston.  We have signed up as we intended to be in Charleston already.  We expect we will meet many more “class of 2018” Loopers in our next 6 months of travels as we finish up our three year journey. 
And of course other Loopers did show up.  Eddy and Linda (Spiritus) joined us aboard to ask questions about Door County favorites.  So we gave them a "Wisconsin Briefing"  as a sort of partial payback for the great weather forecasting work they do for Loopers.  We hope to continue to see Loopers along the way north, spending time with interesting people is one of the most enjoyable parts of this adventure.
A night view of Beaufort waterfront.

Saturday we took a nice walk and just enjoyed shopping in the community. 

Saturday night we watched Michigan win their final four basketball game.  Go Blue!

Sunday we walked across the swing bridge to Lady's Island and St Peter's Catholic Church for Easter Sunday Mass. 

The 30 something priest had a good message and it included a "challenge" to folks to come the next 7 Sundays for the "Seven Week Mass is Awesome Challenge".  He said to think of it as a science project and that if it wasn't what you thought at the end of seven weeks you should come and talk with him.  A very good speaker and energetic young man. 
Oh, and our exercise for the day is taken care of as it was over two miles each way! On the walk back from the famous "Forest Gump bridge".  Yes this bridge was where the famous scene in the movie was filmed.


Another view of Beaufort from the bridge.  Note that the cruise ship is following us again!

A couple closer photos of the cruise ship following us.  Glad we have not encountered a pass of one of these in a tight part of the ICW!

We were reading the Church bulletin and the pastor's message had the heading "From the Poker Table" and was signed "All in for Jesus".  Seemed a little strange.  So Julie did a little Google work and found the priest had been in a Vegas poker tourney in 2009 and won $100,000 for his parish.  His name is Father Andrew Trapp.  Google it and you will find a YouTube of the poker event.  Interesting.
We had a little time to reflect on life a bit after Easter Mass.  The booklet on the table is one shared at Easter Mass.  Everyone was challenged to share its message with another.  We do thank God for His blessings and our ability to experience this wonderful adventure.  A nice reflection spot on the stern tied to the dock in Beaufort.

We plan to anchor out the next three nights on our way to Charleston.  Short travel days but no hurry to get to Charleston.  We will be staying in Charleston through Sunday night and then continuing our trek north.  


March statistics:

Miles travelled:  Month: 702 / Trip to Date: 10203

Travel days:  15 / 219
Engine hours: 83 / 1164
Locks:   4 / 526Bridges opened:  8 / 90

Days on hook or free wall:  7 / 97
Gallons of diesel:  506  / 8254

Loopers we are meeting along the way....too many to count!

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